Thanks to Joshua A. (NoExpert) for the review and instructions for installing one of our kits in a Sage EBR stock.
Hawk,
I finally had time to get the Ambi kit installed in my Sage Mod 1. It's no little piece of work nor for those with a faint heart, but the pay off is worth it. I went with the button lock instead of the switch, personal decision based on the fact my rifle is a semi-auto and always will be, so the lock makes it more "realistic".
As for what I did and used... your ambi kit
2X 6-32 X 5/8" stainless steel socket head cap screws
#36 high speed drill
6-32 end tap(must be an end tap)
cutting fluid
pink Loctite (#222)
2X 6-32 X 5/8" stainless steel socket head cap screws
#36 high speed drill
6-32 end tap(must be an end tap)
cutting fluid
pink Loctite (#222)
First thing I noticed is the bracket doesn't contact the chassis by about 1/16" and actually needed to be about 1/16" higher than that so I needed about a 1/8" spacer on the bottom. I used some aluminum flat bar to make the spacer from, only took a few minutes to get fitted.
Note: Washers are included with the "AMBI" kit for use as shims if necessary.
Note: Washers are included with the "AMBI" kit for use as shims if necessary.
Next up was locating where to drill the holes, I used a small dab of grease on each side of the aluminum spacer I made to hold everything together while I adjusted it in the cutout with the barreled action in the chassis.
Once I got a good idea of where to put it I eyeballed the connector arm over the sear release and op rod to see how it'd line up, this took a few adjustments to look right. I then squared up the lock to the chassis (since this is just a decoration, it may as well look good right?), and removed the barreled action very carefully. After this I marked where the forward hole should go with a punch. Then the real fun begins...
Got out the #36 drill and cutting fluid and clamped up the chassis in my drill press. I double checked that the drill was centered over the punch mark about a dozen times since I only had one shot at it. I used lots of cutting fluid, cleaned the hole often and made short plunges each time so the holes didn't get gouged out by the chips coming out. The first hole was the critical one, the second hole I just lined the bracket up over the first hole, squared it up and punched it. The drilling procedure was the same as the first. Then I cleaned up everything and got out the 6-32 end tap. I dipped it in cutting fluid and began threading the holes. It's a slow process, maybe three turns in and back it out to clean it off, dip in cutting fluid and repeat till it bottoms out. The big thing here was patience and not trying to force the tap to go in.
Afterward, I blew out the holes, wiped up as much cutting fluid as possible, then removed most of the cotton from a cotton swab and threaded it into the two holes. I did this several times with the last time dipping it in acetone to remove any oil or grease.
Once I got a good idea of where to put it I eyeballed the connector arm over the sear release and op rod to see how it'd line up, this took a few adjustments to look right. I then squared up the lock to the chassis (since this is just a decoration, it may as well look good right?), and removed the barreled action very carefully. After this I marked where the forward hole should go with a punch. Then the real fun begins...
Got out the #36 drill and cutting fluid and clamped up the chassis in my drill press. I double checked that the drill was centered over the punch mark about a dozen times since I only had one shot at it. I used lots of cutting fluid, cleaned the hole often and made short plunges each time so the holes didn't get gouged out by the chips coming out. The first hole was the critical one, the second hole I just lined the bracket up over the first hole, squared it up and punched it. The drilling procedure was the same as the first. Then I cleaned up everything and got out the 6-32 end tap. I dipped it in cutting fluid and began threading the holes. It's a slow process, maybe three turns in and back it out to clean it off, dip in cutting fluid and repeat till it bottoms out. The big thing here was patience and not trying to force the tap to go in.
Afterward, I blew out the holes, wiped up as much cutting fluid as possible, then removed most of the cotton from a cotton swab and threaded it into the two holes. I did this several times with the last time dipping it in acetone to remove any oil or grease.
The big moment, I test fitted the bracket and arm to see how it looked on just the chassis, and it looked good. When I tried dropping the action in and it bound up on the connector arm, I expected it. I notched out as little as possible on the connector arm so it just cleared the connector lock when the arms was pulled to the side.
The reason I did this was so the connector lock hold the arm up as it should instead of resting on the chassis. This also makes the arm sit parallel to the op rod channel which as stated before, it's a
decoration and should look good.
decoration and should look good.
Last step was function testing the rifle, I found the connector arm was catching the op rod enough to hold it dead even with the piston tail.
Not a major thing, but I preferred to have no doubt that the op rod was being stopped by the piston. So I shifted the bracket forward about 1/64" which resolved everything (of course checking for square).
When I did this, I also Loctited the screws and torqued them to 20 in-lbs. The arm is still grabbed by the op rod, but just slightly as it fully travels forward.
Another thing to note, in the pic below, you'll see some silver around the connector shaft. There is a little in/out play the button lock, so I wrapped wire around the inside and soldered it. Now it has a little rotational movement but nearly no in/out movement. Just a personal thing to keep things
tight on the rifle.
tight on the rifle.
As a side note, the connector arm contacting the op rod seems to help lock the op rod in place so it doesn't have the rotational play it originally did. Kind of nice, have to see if effects groups.
On real M14's with the button installed, the sear release is pushed forward into the rear of the op rod "shelf" and a little tab at the bottom of the tab on the receiver for the connector shaft. I also made sure there was a slight gap between the receiver and connector arm so it wasn't rubbing the receiver (also how it is on real M14's). Basically I didn't want the connector arm or bracket/button assembly rubbing on the chassis or the receiver. This is what I
based my positioning on and it put everything in place just right with only needing the mods on the connector arm (removing the center block, removing the forward top inside tab and slightly
modifying the bottom tab). Once the bracket is installed there should be enough clearance to install the connector arm from the outside and pivot it up over the chassis. If you can't do this, the bracket is probably too low. The rear of the connector arm should be about half on the receiver and
half on the chassis.
I would suggest to anyone wanting to install one of these kits, in a Sage or USGI stock, look at as many pics of real M14's as you can so you understand the geometry and how it should all look and work together.
Once properly installed the setup is solid. The rear of the connector arm is spring loaded and pushes the front down and in so the op rod slightly lifts it when locking home and it naturally wants to be against the receiver. When installing or removing the barreled action, I recommend locking the op rod back so it's easier to pull the connector arm away to clear the connector lock.
This is a great kit and really completes the rifle. I have to give credit to SEND-IT/MARINES84-88 for inspiring me to make the plunge as well as his advice for installing it. I was hesitant since I wasn't sure about the difficulty or the added weight, but it's definitely one of those things where the ends justify the means.
On real M14's with the button installed, the sear release is pushed forward into the rear of the op rod "shelf" and a little tab at the bottom of the tab on the receiver for the connector shaft. I also made sure there was a slight gap between the receiver and connector arm so it wasn't rubbing the receiver (also how it is on real M14's). Basically I didn't want the connector arm or bracket/button assembly rubbing on the chassis or the receiver. This is what I
based my positioning on and it put everything in place just right with only needing the mods on the connector arm (removing the center block, removing the forward top inside tab and slightly
modifying the bottom tab). Once the bracket is installed there should be enough clearance to install the connector arm from the outside and pivot it up over the chassis. If you can't do this, the bracket is probably too low. The rear of the connector arm should be about half on the receiver and
half on the chassis.
I would suggest to anyone wanting to install one of these kits, in a Sage or USGI stock, look at as many pics of real M14's as you can so you understand the geometry and how it should all look and work together.
Once properly installed the setup is solid. The rear of the connector arm is spring loaded and pushes the front down and in so the op rod slightly lifts it when locking home and it naturally wants to be against the receiver. When installing or removing the barreled action, I recommend locking the op rod back so it's easier to pull the connector arm away to clear the connector lock.
This is a great kit and really completes the rifle. I have to give credit to SEND-IT/MARINES84-88 for inspiring me to make the plunge as well as his advice for installing it. I was hesitant since I wasn't sure about the difficulty or the added weight, but it's definitely one of those things where the ends justify the means.
Note: Additional installation information can be found in the standard installation instructions. It is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the standard instructions as well as the above instructions prior to beginning your installation.